In our time in San Cristobal my partner and I probably ate dinner with Gerardo seven times. I was lucky enough to find ArtLibreria on our first night, and we were welcomed so warmly and treated to the best Mayan food I've ever had. Gerardo cooks an all vegan, pre-Hispanic menu every day with ingredients sourced from organic, local Zapatista shops. The first course is always some kind of veggie soup, amazing veggie soup cooked fresh every day for 5 hours. The second (and sometimes third) course is a surprise, but always delicious. For dessert, you can have a powerful cacao. Come with a pretty empty stomach because you will leave barely able to walk home after. The servings are huge, and it is impossible to say no when Gerardo offers anything. We were also lucky enough to take a cooking class with Gerardo. It was an absolute treat to spend the day with him, and we learned to cook the best mole, I think, in the world. Gerardo is passionate and curious about many things, and I loved our conversations. I really learned a lot from Gerardo about food, art, local history, and much more. Thanks so much Gerardo for hosting us with so much love and making us feel at home right away in San Cristobal. We hope to be back soon. Love, Timna and Eric